❄️ Winter Care: Keeping Pets Warm and Heaters Safe

Cold-weather care for dogs and cats, warmth for small mammals and birds, and how to use reptile heat lamps, mats and thermostats without burns or fires.

Updated 2026-11-01

Who struggles most in winter

A fur coat doesn't make every animal cold-proof. Small or short-haired dogs such as Chihuahuas and Italian greyhounds, hairless cats like the Sphynx, puppies, kittens, seniors, and pets with arthritis or heart disease all find it harder to stay warm.

The animals that need the most deliberate winter planning are reptiles and amphibians, which cannot generate their own body heat, and tiny mammals like hamsters and sugar gliders that lose heat quickly because of their size. For them, temperature control is a matter of survival, not comfort. At the same time, heat-sensitive species such as chinchillas and rabbits can be harmed by overheating, so the starting point is always knowing the target range for your particular animal.

Dogs and cats in cold weather

On bitter days, split walks into several shorter outings and aim for the warmest part of the day. A well-fitted coat helps small or thin-coated dogs, but take it off indoors so the skin can breathe and the dog doesn't overheat.

Rock salt and chemical de-icers can sting paw pads and upset the stomach if licked off. Wipe paws with lukewarm water after each walk and dry them thoroughly, including between the toes. Trimming long fur between the pads helps prevent painful ice balls; paw balm or dog boots are worth trying for sensitive feet.

Cats seek out warmth under duvets, beside boilers and on heated pads. Low-temperature burns are possible with prolonged contact, so keep electric blankets on low settings and make sure your pet can always move away from the heat. Indoor heating dries the air; a humidifier can ease static, dry skin and dandruff for both of you.

Hidden winter hazards

Antifreeze containing ethylene glycol tastes sweet, and a few licks can cause fatal kidney failure in dogs and cats. Wipe up drips in garages and parking spaces immediately, keep containers sealed and stored high, and consider pet-safer propylene glycol formulas. If you think your pet has licked antifreeze, go to a vet before symptoms appear, because treatment works best within hours.

In cold weather, outdoor cats often crawl into warm engine compartments or wheel wells. Tapping on the hood and pausing a moment before starting the car gives them a chance to escape.

Space heaters and stoves cause their own share of accidents, from singed whiskers and tails to toppled units. Use guards around heaters, choose models with tip-over and overheat shut-off, and switch them off when you leave. Candles and oil burners are also within easy reach of a curious cat's tail.

Small mammals and birds

When temperatures drop too far, a hamster can slip into a torpor-like state, becoming cold, stiff and barely breathing. Owners sometimes mistake this for death. If you find a hamster like this, warm it slowly in your hands or wrapped in a lukewarm towel and call a vet. Never use hot water or a hair dryer to speed things up.

Keep small-animal enclosures away from windows, outside doors and drafty hallways. Add a deeper layer of bedding, and stuff hideouts with hay or paper nesting material so the animal can build an insulated nest. If you cover a cage with a blanket at night, leave part of it open for ventilation.

Birds dislike sudden temperature swings, so position the cage away from drafts and use a breathable cover overnight. Be aware that fumes from overheated non-stick (PTFE-coated) cookware, and from some heaters or appliances with similar coatings during first use, can kill birds within minutes. Keep birds well away from the kitchen and ventilate whenever you cook.

Reptiles and amphibians: the winter basics

Reptiles are ectotherms; their body temperature follows their surroundings, so supplemental heat is essential in winter. The goal is not to heat the whole enclosure evenly but to create a gradient, with a warm end and a cooler end. That lets the animal move back and forth to regulate itself, which is how digestion, immunity and activity stay on track.

A leopard gecko benefits from belly heat at one end, a bearded dragon needs an intense basking spot, and species like crested geckos actually prefer moderate temperatures and are at risk of overheating. Check the care sheet for your species for exact ranges.

• Use digital thermometers at both the warm and cool ends rather than guessing.
• Room temperatures fall at night, so check nighttime readings too.
• Cold-water amphibians such as axolotls are comfortable in cooler months, but avoid sudden swings in water temperature.

A reptile that stops eating or becomes sluggish is often too cold. If correcting temperatures doesn't help, consult a vet experienced with reptiles.

Heater safety: preventing burns and fires

Most reptile heating accidents happen when a heater runs without a thermostat or when the animal can touch the heat source directly. A few rules prevent the majority of problems.

• Connect every heat source to a thermostat. An unregulated heat mat can reach surface temperatures far higher than you'd expect.
• Fit ceramic heat emitters and basking bulbs with a mesh guard so animals cannot climb onto or press against them.
• Avoid heat rocks; their surfaces can overheat and have caused many serious belly burns.
• Cover only about a third of the floor with a heat mat, and keep an air gap beneath the enclosure.
• Check bulb wattage against the fixture's rating, and never drape fabric or paper over lamps or enclosure lids.
• Don't daisy-chain several heaters on one power strip, and dust plugs and sockets regularly.

An infrared temperature gun is the easiest way to check surface temperatures under a heat source. Before trips, confirm timers and thermostats are working, and keep heat packs and an insulated box on hand in case of a power cut.

Health and legal notes are general information and do not replace a vet or official guidance.